“You Are What You Eat (and don’t shit)”
-Someone told me someone else said that.
“You Are What You Eat (and don’t shit)”
-Someone told me someone else said that.
Circles and Squares. People taking over anti-people places.
(Click on chart images for larger sizes)
This is a map of small business owners’ representations of their neighborhood by the names of ethnic groups they put on their awning to draw in customers. The map provides an alternative perspective on the ethnic makeup of Bed-Stuy, to the one provided by census data shown on the NY Times map. Not that the Times map doesn’t provide a useful perspective on the city as a whole, but a more dynamic and flowing map like the above may provide a more tangible example of the lived experience in a neighborhood through how people identify their neighbors. Individual peoples’ identities are not static, and the river with different currents is also more indicative of the way people generally self-identify.
While the above map provides a glimpse at a new way to imagine the neighborhood, of course it is not perfect and far from scientific. Chinese food is ubiquitous and not necessarily representative of the make up of the neighborhood, and the existence of Thai and Japanese point to another trend I address below. There is also an interesting layering that happens amongst different immigrant groups, where the latest to arrive group puts all the names in their awnings, giving more weight and importance to words like “American” and “West Indian” than perhaps they deserve. For example, all the Bangladeshi store owners put “Bangladeshi, Indian, African, West Indian, and American” in their awnings. Africans generally put “African, West Indian, and American”, and West Indians put “West Indian and American.” Those who identify culturally as American generally put “Southern or Soul Food” reflecting their migrant connection to the U.S. South. Perhaps not surprisingly, the section of the map where the most non-immigrant identifying “Americans” live are the places where they are not represented on the map and vice-versa.
The next two maps can go deeper to show a more comprehensive view of different cultures in the neighborhood. Food consumption, and dietary preferences are measures of how culture and class interact in the neighborhood. Compare individual blocks to see how different food consumption trends correlate to the various ethnic identities.
In the above chart, I lumped different food places into 5 major categories, and mapped their prevalence along the Fulton street strip. The breakdown provides further insight into food behaviors in the neighborhood:
See a graph of this same chart here.
This last chart is the most simple and I left it in graph form to show how significant the differences are amongst areas of Fulton Street. Dietary subscriptions due to culture, whether religious or lifestyle choices, are a key indicator of who lives in an area. The above chart when cross checked with the above two maps show some interesting correlations:
For my initial research questions see my first two posts (here and here). For more in-depth observations on individual sites, visit my map where you can click on various icons. You can also see pictures of various awnings in the neighborhood on my flickr page.
One of the reasons I was initially attracted to living in The Bedford-Stuyvesant area of Brooklyn, aka Bed-Stuy, was the ethnic and religious diversity of the neighborhood’s residents. My 3 unit building alone represents several of the major groups that are leaving their cultural mark on the place. I have a Bangladeshi landlord with his family living below me, a West Indian family above, and my roommates and I, a group of first and second generation American Africans in the middle. When I saw the “ethnic diversity” map of New York recently published in the New York Times, I saw it as problematic in many ways, but not least of which was that it didn’t really reflect the lived experience of my neighborhood. So I went ahead and decided to try show what an actual map of my neighborhood’s diversity would look like.
In thinking about what my mapping of restaurants on Fulton Street should entail, I didn’t just want to go into places and make assumptions about who was or wasn’t in there based on stereotypes. Since the stores themselves advertised it on their awnings, I realized I didn’t have to. I decided to focus my data collection on the ways an establishment uses it’s awning as a marketing tool to reach out to the diverse population of the community.
What I’ve noticed about all the restaurants between Clinton Hill and Bed-Stuy is that businesses use specific words to draw different customers in. Different ethnic groups and classes use the signs differently, and different words correspond to areas with higher concentrations of different ethnic or economic groups. The inside of the establishments vary widely ranging from restaurants retaining specific cultural and religious cues and food, to enterprising businesses just trying cast the widest net for potential customers.
I feel that the signs also do a service to the neighborhood to diffuse potential ethnic tensions. I’ve heard that in other communities like in The Bronx, and Staten Island, with a high concentration of African immigrants, a tension between Black Americans and African immigrants has developed. I haven’t seen that so much in Bed-Stuy (at least on the surface), and I believe that the welcoming nature of the signs, and the diversity of the community plays a roll. There’s also an interesting diversity within the Muslim community centered around the several Masjids in the area. As I noted before, the biggest one, Masjid At-Taqwa is a definite central node for the community where Sufi Muslim Senegalese mix with Sunni Muslims from places as diverse as Eastern Europe, Bangladesh, and Yemen. The neighborhood focused blog, the Bed-Stuy Patch has an interesting 3 part series detailing the experiences of the Senegalese in Bed-Stuy. The first one is on their businesses, the second is on the youth, and the last is on the greater Muslim community. Again, a potentially explosive and controversial subject in other parts of the city, such as an Islamic center, has fostered harmonious living between groups in Bed-Stuy.
Some other trends I’ve notice include a socioeconomic divide accentuated by a “transitional” residential area on Fulton between Clinton-Hill and Bed-Stuy. Clinton Hill is a neighborhood that is widely known as going through a process of gentrification, and Bed-Stuy has been pegged by some as the next front in that stuggle. It was telling that there was an installation addressing food and gentrification done by MoCADA on an abandoned building in this section of Fulton, symbolically marking the gentrification dividing line.
Gentrification an almost universal trend across much of the United States, and especially in the post-industrial cities of the Rust Belt, is the perfect example of how Capitalism cycles through areas of production, creating booms and bust across both urban and rural landscapes. Less publicized (but perhaps more focused on in the past) is the roll of immigrant communities in changing the face and make up of a community. Some questions for future research beyond the scope of this project include: Is a burgeoning Senegalese population more inviting to middle class and wealthy clientele that may have avoided a neighborhood nicknamed “Do or Die” before? (There was a similar trend in Harlem with Little Senegal preceding that neighborhood’s gentrification. My roommate and I jokingly call Bed-Stuy Young Harlem.) How do ideas of African identity play a roll in the relationships between the three major African diaspora communities? How does the relationship between class, race, and nation of origin play out in the various neighborhood meeting spots?
In trying to address many of the questions that I came up with when pondering Fulton street, I decided to focus categories that weren’t based on appearance of people or assumptions based on stereotypes like skin color, dress, and accent. The categories I focused on gave me a sense of religion, nation of origin, and class without having to make judgments on individuals. These are:
As Sze Tsung Leong pointed out, shopping evolves.
Yesterday, I took a Virgin America flight, and we had to order all our food through a Linux powered touch screen interface. You add items (including free items like water) to a cart, then press checkout and the flight attendant brings you your item. The lady next to me tried to ask the flight attendant for water, and she was told to order through the screen. Now they can track what you do over a flight by what seat you were in and what activity you engaged in. If airlines sell this information to companies it could be big business. Facebook and Google already do this.
M.I.A. has a song in which the chorus warns that “The Google connects you to the government,” and Egypt provides an example of how far governments are willing to go to control its people’s internet usage. But, what scares me more is how corporations use and control the information we willingly give them.
When I moved to New York, four months ago I convinced myself that I had to live in the vicinity of a West African community. I had planned on moving near Little Senegal, 116th Street in Harlem, but found that the rents were too expensive. I was staying with a friend in Bed-Stuy and he suggested that I check out the neighborhood around Fulton and Bedford as there were a collection of African restaurants around there.
On the corner of Bedford and Fulton sits the Masjid At-Taqwa. From what I can see, the building is a large part of the identity of the neighborhood. Muslims of all backgrounds have congregated in the area, and you can see people from West Africa, South Asia, and The Middle East all going about their business. I wonder how the settlement pattern happened. Were immigrants attracted to the area because of low rents and the Muslim community brought the Mosque there? Or did the community develop around the Mosque? The block surrounding the Mosque is filled with restaurants that exist to cater to the crowd coming to worship. Halal food signs dominate the block with various ethnic food themes: Chinese to Arabic to African. The names of the restaurants entertain me as most of the restaurants manage to work the words “Halal” and “American” into their often long and strung out names. Signs promoting healthy or more conscious lifestyle choices such as, “Don’t eat junk” and “No Pork” line the street.
Al Pasha restaurant, next to Masjid At-Taqwa isn’t the best restaurant in the neighborhood, but it’s clientele seems to be one of the most diverse. I sat late last night with a diverse collection of men eating, and women either working or studying and watched the events in Egypt unfold on Al-Jazeera. Most of the restaurants I’ve been to have flat screen TV’s with satellite connections to news in the local language about events back “home”. My favorite restaurant, “Halal African Cuisine African and American Food” down the street serves home cooked West African food and depending on the time of day will show a range of shows, from French language news, to soap operas.
What I like about the restaurants in the neighborhood is that you can eat well for cheap, and no matter the targeted crowd, you can find a diverse clientele. Some of my favorite people watching happens at the Dominican run, “Spanish and American food” restaurant, where Black Americans talk in broken Spanish to prescribe an alternative to the Dominican version of rice and chicken. The ordering habits differ by cultural familiarity.
I hypothesize that there are two main groups that frequent these restaurants. One is the ethnic or religious community that is targeted by creating familiar home-style dishes, and the other is a local low income clientele that is attracted to the decent food at affordable prices. This study will be focus on socio-economic and cultural motivations for frequenting the food establishments in the area.